
During the early years of the United States, the 18th century French political theorist Alexis de Tocqueville pointed out that freedom and equality are not the same thing. This essentially means two things. First, it means I actually learned something from my summer government course. Second, it brings out the idea that while freedom is a necessity for equality, equality is not required for freedom. Thus, in every country in the world you can see people who are free but still regarded as unequal.
Apartheid officially ended in 1991, but my family and I could still feel it lingering in the air. Every time we walked into a bed and breakfast, we were greeted by a white inn keeper and our bags were carried to our rooms by a black bell boy. Every time we ate dinner at a restaurant, a white restaurant manager would ask us how our food tasted while black waiters would take away our dishes. It was impossible not to see the great racial divide that existed. In many ways, our brown skin put us right there in the middle of that crack in the earth. It made us great observers.
Apartheid was gone.
Separation still lingered.
Freedom was given
Inequality still festered.
Apartheid was a dark time in history. It’s always a dark time in history when something that is so inexplicably wrong can be so explicitly woven into the fabric of everyday life. During apartheid, it was normal for people of different colors to carry race identification cards, eat at different restaurants, and live in separate parts of the city. Apartheid wasn’t just an inconvenience. It was long days of torture. It was never ending starvation. It was publicized prison for life or a quick bullet to the head in secrecy. No words could ever describe the horrors of apartheid. But perhaps a short anecdote can illuminate the extraordinary leaders that were sacrificed, the amazing passion of hundreds of activists, and the pervasiveness of the “soul force” that is inside each and every one of us.
It was our last day in Cape Town and we had nothing on the itinerary for the day. My sister was on her way to Angola before me and my parents (that’s just how her flight worked out) so it was just us three with a free day in one of the coolest cities in the world. My dad kept talking about Robben Island, the island where Nelson Mandela and many political prisoners were banished to during apartheid. I honestly did not feel like embarking on another history lesson, but now I’m super glad that I did. Going to another country without caring about its history is like trying to eat a slice of pizza from Papa John’s without any garlic sauce. It’s just not right.
Before we knew it, we were on a fairy to Robben Island (Robben is the Dutch word for seals, which are plentiful on the island). When we got there, we were surprised to learn that we would be given a tour by an ex-political prisoner. There was this level of authenticity that came from this tour that I have never experienced before. From the passion in his voice you could tell how much he had to go through during his time as a political prisoner. When he spoke about his experiences, his words quickly hit you like a bullet but his pauses… his pauses would make you feel its lingering pain. He spoke fiercely and made jokes but when you looked into his eyes you could not help but see that small twinkle of remembrance… that dilation of the pupil that happens when one shrinks into their skin and remembers something that they have spent their whole life trying to forget.
Our tour guide took us onto a bus and we began our tour to other parts of the island. Our bus slowed down near a small, lonely, house sitting snugly on the red dirt. Our tour guide began to speak again, his words inflecting with the waves hitting the rocks on the shoreline. This was the house that Walter Sisulu was banished for 25 years.
Walter Sisulu was not only a prisoner of Robben island, but was forced to be in isolation. He was not allowed to interact with the other prisoners. He was not allowed to talk to the other prisoners. The only way he communicated with the other political prisoners on the island was with his hands. When the other prisoners would pass by his fenced house on their way to the limestone quarries, he would run his fingers through the soft soil, pick some up, and let it fall slowly back to the ground.
This soil belongs to us.
This bright red soil
spilled with blood
slavery
oppression
imprisonment
This soil belongs to us.
I can’t help but think of that iconic scene in Blood Diamond (***Spoiler Alert if you have not watched my FAVORITE movie yet). Archer is resting on a rock, running his fingers through the typical red African soil. His enemies are approaching him, his death is inevitable, but as he gazes out into the canyon he realizes that his home is Africa, that Africa is where he needs to be, and that Africa is where he will be set free.
Our tour bus continued on the dirt road and we were soon passing large piles of chalky white rocks. These were the infamous limestone quarries where prisoners were supposed to work all day. I can imagine the beads of sweat on their dark skin sweating under the heat of the sun and baking under the reflective rays of the white limestone. I was surprised to hear that nothing was done with the limestone after it was mined. The quarries were meant purely for the reason to make them suffer. We also saw the shaded cave where many secret meetings of political revolution occurred. We were told that many political prisoners struggled with blindness after being released into their old age, I thought of Nelson mandalas kind eyes, the crow’s feet that shifted every time that he laughed.
Apartheid was not just separation between blacks and whites. Many Indians were held on Robben Island for their political struggle with Great Britain. A Muslim imam, Sayed Abdurahman Moturu, was banished to the island until the day he was buried there. A small mosque with an emerald green dome is a pilgrimage sight for many people even today. People with leprosy were also banished to the island. As you can see, apartheid wasn’t just about separating black people from white people. To the people in charge, it was a way to eliminate other religions, other races, foreigners, political dissenters, and people with disabilities. The island was made up of so many different people from so many different walks of life, but they all had ONE thing in common. They all had a thirst for equality.
The last stop was Nelson Mandela’s jail cell. It was a tiny jail cell, just like all the others. Right outside the bars of his cell was a small courtyard surrounded by a high concrete fence. In that courtyard was small tree with a big story. When Nelson Mandela was in his jail cell, he spent a lot of his time writing his book, “Long walk to freedom,” As we walked out, I looked at that small green tree and it looked so odd in the shadows of the tall grey walls, watch towers, and barbed wire. That small tree that sheltered the words of Mandela and freedom for so long before they were finally released to the public. I saw in that thin tree a strong pillar of hope.
“It matters not how strait the gate,
How charged with punishments the scroll,
I am the master of my fate,
I am the captain of my soul. “
– William Ernest Henley
When the book was finished it was smuggled out by an Indian man and published for the rest of the world to read. Any book that has gone through that much struggle to stay alive deserves to be read, or for the busy person, at least glanced at:
“I have walked that long road to freedom. I have tried not to falter; I have made missteps along the way. But I have discovered the secret that after climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. I have taken a moment here to rest, to steal a view of the glorious vista that surrounds me, to look back on the distance I have come. But I can only rest for a moment, for with freedom come responsibilities, and I dare not linger, for my long walk is not ended.” – Nelson Mandela.
Words are so powerful, especially when they are written under a circumstance like this.
My trip to South Africa really made me appreciate those who have struggled for us to have equality. Whether it be racial inequality, gender inequality, or religious inequality, these lessons can be applied to all forms of oppression. To anyone who feels oppressed or like they are a second-class citizen: Embrace freedom when it comes but never stop the search for equality. Freedom can be declared on paper, but equality has to be felt. If you give up on the search for equality, remember the thousands of people around the world who fought and died for it. If you stop searching for equality, the world will turn a blind eye and forget about the possibility of its very existence. It’s a long walk to freedom and an even longer walk to equality. We just need to keep walking.










